I had lost hope with my electric cooking plates. The white circles where completely hidden under a layer of diamond-grade burn residue that no amount of scrubbing with chemicals could even begin to remove. I found this 3€ scrapping tool and it’s amazing !!! Sorry, but I don’t have the before picture, believe me after 6 years of usage, it was bad.

  • linearchaos@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    48
    ·
    1 year ago

    This is the absolute proper tool for this job.

    That said, everyone should know the different ways of cleaning the things.

    Bar keepers Friend, for the equivalent oxalic acid/ddbsa cleaner in your area will remove dark carbon from most surfaces, especially when used with a magic eraser/melamine sponge

    If you have a pot or a pan or something movable that is very burnt on, soaking it in an extremely dangerous solution of potassium hydroxide (lye) well absolutely remove all the organics. You just have to be sure to wear gloves and splash protection because it will blind you in a hot second.

    Soaking rusty items in vinegar for a prolonged period of time will remove the rust, but you’ll have to treat it pretty quickly to keep the rusr from coming back.

    • SuzyQ@sh.itjust.works
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      6
      ·
      1 year ago

      Bar keepers Friend, for the equivalent oxalic acid/ddbsa cleaner in your area will remove dark carbon from most surfaces, especially when used with a magic eraser/melamine sponge

      I had no idea! Thank you! I keep this to clean my ceramic cast iron sink but had no idea that I could use this on my glass top stove and the burnt bottom of my pans!

      • linearchaos@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        9
        ·
        1 year ago

        A super thin layer of food safe oil. Apply it, Buff it back off as much as possible than wash the pan.

        If it’s cast iron you can just re-season it.

        • ubermeisters@lemmy.world
          link
          fedilink
          English
          arrow-up
          5
          ·
          1 year ago

          I’m not convinced about your instructions. Applying a thin layer of oil then buffing it then washing it back off? That doesn’t make any sense. Modern dish soaps are very good at cleaning thin oil films. Why oil it then wash the oil off? Idk like I said.

          • linearchaos@lemmy.world
            link
            fedilink
            English
            arrow-up
            7
            ·
            1 year ago

            The amount of oil on the surface that you need to stop rust is on the molecular level.

            Do it, don’t do it, whatever suits you, That’s what I do and it works for me.

            • ubermeisters@lemmy.world
              link
              fedilink
              English
              arrow-up
              5
              ·
              1 year ago

              … yeah surfactants are molecules too… I’m thinking I’ll not, as someone with a proper material science education. No shade, just, you’re definitely not correct, or maybe your house uses bacon grease as dish soap.

              • modifier@lemmy.ca
                link
                fedilink
                English
                arrow-up
                2
                ·
                1 year ago

                house uses bacon grease as dish soap.

                I’m no materials scientist, just some guy on the internet who wants to make sure there isn’t a revolutionary idea missed in they throwaway comment.

                • ubermeisters@lemmy.world
                  link
                  fedilink
                  English
                  arrow-up
                  1
                  ·
                  edit-2
                  1 year ago

                  People have historically used bacon grease to make soap, with lye. It’s also commonly used to seal pans against moisture, without washing them after. Also is a decent chrome polish.

          • JungleJim@sh.itjust.works
            link
            fedilink
            English
            arrow-up
            0
            ·
            1 year ago

            Is it? I just throw it in the oven on high for a bit. Sometimes if I’m lazy I’ll just oil it and cook on high without seasoning. Just using it seasons it some. Even if the season is incomplete, just being oiled will prevent rust until next time and that seasoning builds up. Some people make a hobby of doing things the “right way” though, who am I to judge?

            • Maeve@kbin.social
              link
              fedilink
              arrow-up
              0
              ·
              1 year ago

              Idk, I gave away an almost new set of cast iron, but for the Dutch over and skillet. Skillet was preseasoned, used Dutch oven for deep frying/stews/casseroles, so it happened quickly enough. The rest of it wasn’t worth it since it’s heavy enough to be more hindrance and time than I actively used regularly.

              Tl;dr mostly was for me

                • Maeve@kbin.social
                  link
                  fedilink
                  arrow-up
                  0
                  ·
                  1 year ago

                  Heck yeah! If I’d bought the set from a store or online, instead of a yard/estate sale, it would have been several hundred, minimum.

    • pete_the_cat@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      2
      ·
      1 year ago

      I used vinegar to get the rust off of a bunch of (Pogs) Slammers that had gotten wet in my parents basement. It worked reasonably well on most of them.

      • linearchaos@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        4
        ·
        1 year ago

        If we’re not talking about food safe applications crc evaporust is absolutely magical. But it will leave the surface dark which you then would need to buff back off.

          • piecat@lemmy.world
            link
            fedilink
            English
            arrow-up
            2
            ·
            1 year ago

            Honest question, why?

            The material safety data sheet really doesn’t indicate toxicity. It’s not a carcinogen or mutagen (even in California)

            The marketing material on their website shows a cast iron pan

            • KnightontheSun@lemmy.world
              link
              fedilink
              English
              arrow-up
              2
              ·
              1 year ago

              Okay, I will admit I might be wrong on that. The ingredients are proprietary, so I guess we have to trust their docs and the MSDS here.

    • LillyPip@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      edit-2
      1 year ago

      Barkeeper’s Friend is a miracle, but people should know it’s incredibly abrasive and can debride enamelware. I ruined a pan’s outer finish because that didn’t occur to me, using it to get carbonisation off the bottom.

      It’s brilliant for raw metal and glass cooktops, though. When I bought my house, the previous owners left a kit for the glass cooktop including the razor tool in your OP. I’m so grateful they did because I wouldn’t have known.

      e: can’t spell

      • Codex@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        6
        ·
        1 year ago

        It can, yeah. You have to be careful to press gently in the center of the blade and not put pressure on the corners which will gouge huge scratches into glass. I have one of these for cleaning my paint pallette and get double-duty out of it on oven cleaning day.

        They make cleaning kits for these stove tops that typically come with a cheaper plastic version of the tool with a weaker metal razor. Still does the job well, but less scratching chance. Also usually comes with a fine-grain polishing cream and sponges to apply it with. The cream helps to buff out lighter scratches and remove some of the cooked on stuff.

      • Synapse@lemmy.worldOP
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        2
        ·
        1 year ago

        It doesn’t scratch the glass, even when applying quite some force. The blade dulls pretty fast, it probably doesn’t have the hardness to damage the glass.

      • sus@programming.dev
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        2
        ·
        edit-2
        1 year ago

        It’s specifically called a [glass/ceramic] stove cleaning [blade/scraper]. I’ve used one a lot and it doesn’t seem to do noticeable damage (glass stove tops need to be pretty tough anyways to handle regular cooking)

      • Cort@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        1
        ·
        1 year ago

        As long as you keep the blade flat against the glass it doesn’t scratch. If you use the corner of the blade to scrape it will scratch.

    • Synapse@lemmy.worldOP
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      8
      ·
      1 year ago

      Yes, it’s pretty much just that. It comes with spare blades in the handle, and they are double sided ! Very useful, because they dull pretty fast.

  • DreamButt@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    2
    ·
    1 year ago

    My grandfather has something similar but it’s brass (or maybe copper) on the the end. Swears by it for all kinds of things

    • x4740N@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      1 year ago

      Isn’t copper cookware toxic if ot starts leeching copper into food for those with wilsons disease